Dear readers,
I have an extra special treat for you today! Odin, the larger-than-life guy who is always hopping from one crazy situation to the next, is here to share his summer reindeer-herding adventures! Enjoy!!
Katherine
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When I visited Katherine in Kharkov this
August, she asked me to write a blog entry about my travel to the
Tuvan reindeer herders this past summer. After months of
procrastination, I've finally obliged. This first part is more about
the journey—why and how I got there—than about the herders
themselves. The next part will be about our few weeks of life with
them among the reindeer.
My enthusiasm for reindeer is something
that was gradually born from my enthusiasm for Russian language and
culture. As it happens, I first met Katherine in Russian 101 at
University of Alaska Fairbanks, where we learned to say phrases like
"привет!" "хорошо," and «ёбанный
мороз!» After a few years of studying Russian, we decided to do
a student exchange together, to Yakutsk, Sakha Republic--in the
"ёбанный мороз" (&*&E@%! cold)
Northeastern corner of Siberia. Here we are in 2006, shortly after
arriving, together with Gunhild (Norway) and Ruslan (Yaktusk local).
L to R: Odin, Katherine, Gunhild, Ruslan. |
Katherine and I both
dropped out of the exchange program after our first semester there. Katherine returned to Alaska, while I got short-term work teaching
grade-school English in Verkhoyansk--a small town in northern Sakha
Republic. While there, I traveled to the village of Sakkyryr for the
annual Reindeer Festival--my first glimpse at the world of domestic
reindeer and reindeer herders. I didn't really see or learn that
much, partly because I made the mistake of drinking too much vodka
with the herders. But it was enough to kindle a persistent, nagging
curiosity about reindeer and the folks who herd them.
Tuva (Тува)--or
Tyva (Тыва) as it's called in the Tyvan language and in official
contexts--finds itself at the very center of the Asian continent, on
the boundary between steppe & broadleaf/boreal forest.
Thanks
to Khoomei.com for this map.
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Although it is part of Russia, the
republic is dominated by the ethnic Tuvans, the majority of whom
still speak their ancestral tongue. Like all central Asian cultures
that I know of, Tuvans historically
subsisted heavily off herding various kinds of animals: cattle, yaks,
sheep, goats, horses, camels...and--in the Todzhu Region--reindeer!
The Sayan Mountains, which straddle Todzhu and
neighboring parts of Siberia and Mongolia, are somewhat of an
anomaly because they contain small groups of herders isolated far
to the South of all other reindeer
cultures. Yet many scholars believe the Sayan
Mountains to have been the birthplace of reindeer domestication.
Around the time I dropped out of grad
school, Ayanka decided to focus her Ph.D. research on reindeer
herding in Todzhu-Tuva. Last summer she agreed let me tag along with
her as an informal research assistant for her
fieldwork.
After a series of
vodka-fueled diversions around Russia, I joined Ayanka in her
hometown of Kyzyl (Кызыл), capital of the Tuva Republic.
Lenin
Square, Kyzyl.
|
And, after a series
of vodka-fueled diversions in and around Kyzyl, we set out by
маршрутное такси (taxi-van) for the village of
Тоора-Хем (Toora-Khem), regional capital of the
reindeer-bearing Тоджинский кожуун (Todzhu region).
This village was our jumping-off point for visiting the herders.
Toora-Khem is only
maybe 250 kilometers from Kyzyl, but because it's accessed by a
rough, dirt track that threads its way across two mountain passes,
the journey takes more than six hours.
Peaks
of the Хребет академикого Обручева (Mountain
Range of the Academic Obruchev) along our route. This range is the western fringe of the Sayan Mountains.
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During each of the
four days that we spent in Toora-Khem and surrounding villages, it
became progressively more doubtful that our plans to visit the
herders would actually materialize.
Toora-Khem |
Our first day in
Todzhu, we visisted a local official, who almost immediately
introduced us to a "reindeer herder" (whom I'll call "O.")
and his sidekick, who quickly agreed to guide us. Only problem, of
course, was that the amount of money they wanted exceeded our
budgets. Ayanka had done similar fieldwork the previous summer and
had only paid about a third what these two guides wanted from each of
us. Clearly, they were jacking up their prices because I was a
foreigner (and therefore, *must* be rich). Todzhu-Tuvans get their
fair share of wealthy tourists (such as Vladimir Putin, whose recent
fishing trip in the region coincided with our visit), and so some of
them evidently think of foreigners as walking cash machines. Of
course, Todzhu is a poor region with little work and very low wages,
so I think it's fair to charge foreigners a little bit extra. O.'s
foreigner-inflated prices seemed excessive, however. More disturbing,
the gossip grapevine told us that O.'s sidekick had recently been
released from prison for murdering his wife. When we expressed doubt
toward O's offer, he promptly vanished into the taiga on a hunting
trip.
Rush hour
traffic in Toora-Khem.
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Our other options were similarly
overpriced and dubious. We approached a herder who happened to be in
the village buying supplies, but he cast one
fleeting glance at me and immediately shook his head,
"чок-чок!" ("no-no!"). After we had at last
negotiated a workable arrangement with one guide, who agreed to take
us to his friends' herding camp, a village gossiper falsely informed us
that the said guide had "rethought" this arrangement and
was unwilling to guide us after all.
Our housing
situation was equally frustrating. The first family who hosted
us, in the nearby village of Adyr-Kezhig, launched a multi-day
drinking party during our visit. The next host-family we came to was
unemployed, saw us as cash-cows for the milking, and didn't really
want us there to begin with. And as if all these problems weren't
enough, word on the street was that water levels on local rivers were
still unusually high for late June, making travel much more
difficult. Ayanka talked of returning to Kyzyl and postponing her
fieldwork by several weeks; I began weighing a messy mishmash of
options and resulting scenarios...
Ayanka &
her friend Alyaka biding their time in Toora-Khem.
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Note from Katherine: So, what do you guys think? Do you dream of taking a trip like this one? Or do you prefer reading about such adventures from a comfy chair? : )
Odin's story continues in Part 2: On the road in the Tuva Republic
I bet you felt the chill through your lightweight shoes and skirt! ;-)
ReplyDeleteActually, at that point (late Sept-early Oct) it felt pretty much like Alaska : ) Nothing to wear pants/boots for.
DeleteBut then came December (cue ominous danger music!)...
Fascinating experience (even before you actually, you know, made it to what you were supposed to do). I don't know if I could survive such an experience myself...
ReplyDeleteYou guys could always consider it for your honeymoon trip??
DeleteKidding!
Amazing. I have my doubts I ever would've been up for such an adventure, but definitely not now.
ReplyDeleteHi Rhea! : ) I feel the same way as you.
Delete