Showing posts with label Yakutsk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yakutsk. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Remembering Siberia

Nine years ago I was braving the cold and darkness of Siberia.
Odin (yes, the reindeer herder!) and I had traveled to Yakutsk, the capital of the Sakha Republic and one of the largest cities in the world built on top of permafrost, on the traditional student pilgrimage of studying abroad.
a 2 PM sunset

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Siberian Adventures


Dear readers,
I have an extra special treat for you today! Odin, the larger-than-life guy who is always hopping from one crazy situation to the next, is here to share his summer reindeer-herding adventures! Enjoy!!
Katherine
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When I visited Katherine in Kharkov this August, she asked me to write a blog entry about my travel to the Tuvan reindeer herders this past summer. After months of procrastination, I've finally obliged. This first part is more about the journey—why and how I got there—than about the herders themselves. The next part will be about our few weeks of life with them among the reindeer.

My enthusiasm for reindeer is something that was gradually born from my enthusiasm for Russian language and culture. As it happens, I first met Katherine in Russian 101 at University of Alaska Fairbanks, where we learned to say phrases like "привет!" "хорошо," and «ёбанный мороз!» After a few years of studying Russian, we decided to do a student exchange together, to Yakutsk, Sakha Republic--in the "ёбанный мороз" (&*&E@%! cold) Northeastern corner of Siberia. Here we are in 2006, shortly after arriving, together with Gunhild (Norway) and Ruslan (Yaktusk local).
L to R: Odin, Katherine, Gunhild, Ruslan.
Katherine and I both dropped out of the exchange program after our first semester there. Katherine returned to Alaska, while I got short-term work teaching grade-school English in Verkhoyansk--a small town in northern Sakha Republic. While there, I traveled to the village of Sakkyryr for the annual Reindeer Festival--my first glimpse at the world of domestic reindeer and reindeer herders. I didn't really see or learn that much, partly because I made the mistake of drinking too much vodka with the herders. But it was enough to kindle a persistent, nagging curiosity about reindeer and the folks who herd them.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Pictures from the Trans-Siberian, 2007

The road out of Yakutsk
Good bathroom! (despite the -30 F weather)
Bad bathroom!
 (Although, come to think of it, this one is rather clean. I'm gonna change my mind and call it a good bathroom. Years ago D's mom told me the secret: just pull your coat over your head, it's what all women do when there's not a door.)
An elementary school offered us work as these two characters- Дед мороз and Снегуречка.
The city of Nerengre.
Talk about close quarters!

In Irkutsk for Christmas.
Happy New Year!
Just chillin' with my crew, yo
Moscow- January
Red Square- January
I love this picture....later got it framed.
This was taken in September, before going to Yakutsk. Спасибо большое, Дима!

Yakutsk (Siberian) Blog, 2006

A typical house in the village
"Main Street"
Lena River
a very young me! : )

In the spirit of things, here's a link to my old blog about life in Yakutsk (Siberia) and traveling the Trans-Siberian with a colorful cast of characters.

The first entry is September 9th, 2006: "I got a pretty good vibe of what this would be like when we picked up a 16 year old sobbing crackhead at the ferry terminal"

The final entry is January 10th, 2007: "I've just posted all the sordid (or not) secrets of the Trans-Siberian trip"

Haha, looking back, I always wondered why everyone in Russia was obsessed with going to clubs and "dance pole".... I was always looking around for a stripper pole- why else would they keep mentioning a pole? It wasn't until later I found out that "поль" (pole) = floor, so people were actually saying "dance floor".

A couple of pictures from the old days....
Watching the traffic on this road was an endless source of amusement!
Early September
View from my window in September
One month later....view from my window in October
The old part of town. Very pretty and a very expensive shopping district. It's probably, uh, about 2 PM in the afternoon in this photo. Note the 2 women in fur coats in the distance!
2 weeks of hard work! See my comment re: winter activities- drive around, drink or visit a museum. Also, Odin, Odin, Odin :p
Yeah! The Permafrost Institute! That brings our total of winter activities up to 4!