Sept 30th

Before I came to Ukraine, I spent hours compiling a list of things that supposedly couldn't be found here, worried there might be something I just couldn't live without.

Let me tell you this: you can find anything in Ukraine. Seriously, in a place where you can buy Oil of Olay products next to apple-scented toilet paper, what can't you buy?!

Oh yeah, one thing: peanut butter.

Aside from that, I've had no trouble finding anything else, even things I was warned would be impossible to find, like post-it notes and vegetable peelers.

Sept 29th

The tide turned last night...classes went decently, especially the TOEFL class. I really enjoyed that particular class. Today I taught corporate classes, which also seemed to go well. The plus side of teaching 9:30 AM classes across town is that...well, would I ever ride 45 minutes on the metro in the morning crowds for fun? (No.) So this experience is showing me things I wouldn't normally experience. Normally I would experience my pillow, or maybe a sleepy breakfast! :p

The weather is true autumn now- rainy, heavy, a little dreary. It's pleasant to see autumn again after years of Alaska's seasons (summer, winter, and slush). I've realized I have forgotten how to dress for such not-exactly-summer, not-exactly-winter weather. Umbrellas and light coats might have to re-enter my wardrobe soon!

Sept. 26th

Highlight of the day- check out dinner:

"hinkeli"

They're boiling. Verdict is still out on whether they taste as good as they look.

(Update: DELICIOUS! But don't buy the plain variety. Make sure it's the green label!)

Today was not the greatest day. Classes were just, eh, not good. I don't know if it was the lesson, the students, me, the weather, the day of the week (Monday) or all of the above. But rewinding back to the beginning.... at 10 AM this morning someone started doing a ремонт in a nearby apartment. Remember when I said that remodeling is a national obsession here? You're either actually doing it or you're on the verge of doing it, there is no third option (contentedness?)...today a neighbor started doing some heavy demolition. Heavy as building-shaking, massive thuds with a sledgehammer.... I could actually hear things crumbling. I went out and did more shopping for 2 hours (apartment is looking very comfy! Joyce, you'd be proud! D, you will be proud!) Came back, still marathon of destruction going on. Went to a new nearby cafe (local wifi finally, yeah!!!!) for 2 hours, attempting to lesson plan. The cafe was nice. Maybe I'll go there tomorrow to post this, as internet in the apartment has been like an election campaign promise. Supposedly I'm top priority now, they say. Uh-huh. Anyways, then classes, which fell as flat as a bad loaf of bread. All today I had this low mood, this feeling of burn-out. Students can be vicious little beasts; they pick up on that mood so quickly.

Yesterday a coworker took us out to a fancy restaurant called Мiсто.

Kleenex update

This just in! New Kleenex scent discovered: eucalyptus! 

That's perhaps not quite as odd as some of the other scents I mentioned before, though....

Flower-scented toilet paper

Menthol & Nectarine-scented Kleenex

Sept 24th

Scored a couple English language newspapers today! Yes!! After reading them, I want to use some clippings in the TOEFL class but must be careful, as not all the English is grammatically correct.

Ukraine just consolidated the number of visas they offer from 18 (types) to 3. I'm not sure if the visa I arrived here on is still valid. Oh Ukraine, please don't kick me out so soon! This is an incredible life over here, so different and so fun. 99% of the time I wake up and look forward to a new day here in Kharkov. I really, really, really want D and I to be able to spend some time here as residents, not just as 90 day tourists. Also, you now have to prove you have sufficient funds before they'll let you in the country. 

Taught an extra class on Thursday after another teacher fell ill.... total of 5 classes. My first class started at 9:30 AM across town (45 min on metro) and my final class ended at 10:05 PM. That was quite a day! I was in power-save mode for most of the day. Had about 15 minutes to prep for the sick teacher's 2-hour-long class, a level I'd never taught before. The students, of course, were skeptical when I first walked in, but they warmed up and even stuck around to compliment me at the end. That was nice!

On Thursday, Timur and I went out and about-

The Opera House

Park across the street from the opera house

A wedding! The bride and groom are by the fountain. Check out the decorated car in the foreground. That's party- I mean, part- of the wedding tradition here. Drive around in a procession of decked out cars, honk loudly, and stop and take pictures at all the famous monuments. Pretty cool, huh?

Schevhenko Park

Schevhenko Park

A statue of Schevhenko, the famous poet.

Kharkov has amazing architecture. Imagine this on the roof of your apartment building!

My amazing tour guide for the day!

...and then we went to.....

Special note for Russian speakers

Dear Ukrainian & Russian readers,

Have you ever wondered why so many foreigners are terrified of your beautiful language? It's because when the sounds of your words are written with the Latin alphabet, they sometimes look like these words do:

Ukrhazvydobuvannia

Zhytomyrstandartmetrolohia.

Aren't you scared of those words too? :p

Sept, 21, feeling good in Kharkov!

My long-term goal achieved at last; it's beautiful to live with less. Finally, instead of having too much stuff, I have not enough. Want to do my nails? Have to go out and buy a nail clipper. Trying to remember an old grammar activity? Have to get on the metro and go find a coffee shop with wifi. Groceries? Stock up on what can be carried every 2 or 3 days. As Cowboy said from the first day he arrived here, “a simpler and more noble time.” I'm always thinking of things I forgot to bring, things I meant to bring, but really, it's not so bad without them. And seriously, without internet at home....I have SO MUCH time. It'll almost be a pity to go back to my old aimless web-surfing ways. There's something nice about a life where you have less and do more, but- that said- I think it only works when you make a conscious decision that's what you want. If someone takes your stuff, or if you never have it in the first place, this enjoyment does not apply.

Fog descends on the city nightly now. I was really surprised to see it hovering around the street lamps. Isn't Kharkov massively inland? Is it coming from the rivers? Tonight the fog was thick and the street were deserted by 10 PM. Even the metro was empty.... the 4 cops I saw there outnumbered us passengers in transit. The fog smelled heavy and warlike (winter?) and hung around in a smoky haze underground. Other than that ominous sign, this has been a storybook autumn, leaves turning crisp and golden and ever so slowly drifting to the pavement. It was even hot today, under a clear sky! My classes went well today, even the dreaded TOEFL class, and once I get through tomorrow it will be smooth sailing. Tomorrow morning I'll be teaching a couple of corporate classes....another round of new names and faces to learn.

Walking home tonight I passed a guy freaking out, swinging himself around and yelling obscenities. This was sad, yes, but had a silver lining for me- I understood his swear words! My Russian must be improving!

I went to make xerox copies today- the clerk was gone and the sign on the copy machine said “on technological break”. Uh, what exactly is that?